Wednesday, October 3, 2001 (click to see all posts from this day)
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Preliminaries
You may have noticed that the starting point--"Miya"--is in quotes. That's because I didn't actually go there.
At the end of yesterday's Logbook, I was at the ferry dock for the Shichiriwatashi, the "Seven Ri Ferry." This used to be the ferry that went from Miya to Kuwana. Well, it doesn't run any more. So I began my day by taking the train to Kuwana. Today's completed distance was a whopping 43.9 kilometers! Minus, of course, the 28 of the ferry. So I really walked around 16 kilometers.
One of the (many) disadvantages of train travel: in "crossing over" to Kuwana, I also entered Mie prefecture. I have always known exactly when and where I've left one prefecture for another, but in this case I hadn't a clue.
Kuwana, Station #42 on the Old Tokaido
Hiroshige's Tokaido: Kuwana, Station #42 on the Old Tokaido
 Hiroshige shows boats coming in to dock; in the background is Kuwana Castle, subject of my next pictures. They say that the major reason for this ferry crossing of Ise Bay was that the numerous rivers flowing into the bay made land travel around the top difficult. I can testify that the train does indeed cross many rivers in going around the bay. |
Kyuka Park was created on the old castle grounds in 1928. (Both "Kyuka" and "Kuwana" are alternate pronunciations of part of the castle's old nickname. It was called "Kyuka Ougi Jo," a kind of fan, because its layout was fan-shaped.) Completed in 1601, part of the castle was destroyed by fire in 1701. Then, at the end of the Edo period, Tokugawa forces held out here against the Emperor's army but were finally defeated. Although I couldn't find anything that said so, I surmise that the castle--like many others--was destroyed as part of the Meiji's housecleaning.
One of the castle's primary features was its access by water. It is situated just a few hundred meters from the Shichiriwatashi dock, and boats could actually enter and leave the castle.
Another Wright line that occurs to me often during this trip: "Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time."
Yokkaichi, Station #43 on the Old Tokaido
Nope. It's next to a hotel, and there is no sign indicating the name of the church or anything about a congregation. It's another "Chapel of Saint Marry," like the others I've seen. Maybe commercial enterprises are the only ones that can afford to build such a building. Fewer than 1% of the population of Japan is Christian, and the Christians that I've known--other than the Catholics--usually attend home churches.
"Yokkaichi" means "Fourth Day Market." Beginning on the 4th of every month, a six-day market was held here.
As I approached today's walking goal, I had one of those rare and totally unpredictable treats. Lacking any spectacular or historic temple to pray at, I stopped at one of those run-of-the-mill, non-descript places. Saishoji is just a gate, a main hall, a bell, and a cemetery. There are thousands of temples like it. But a temple is a temple, so I prayed, and then sat down for a little break
At this point a man came out of the house on the grounds, came up to me, and started to chat. The usual questions were followed by: "Would you like some tea?" So I was invited into the front room of the house (also an office) and had a nice conversation with the head--and only--priest of the temple.
It seems I keep meeting teachers. The priest was an elementary teacher for 30 years until, at the age of 53, he left it to take over this temple. He was very teacherly in his conversation: though it was all Japanese, he spoke simply, amplified his ideas, and checked constantly to see if I was following him. Part of what he said is in today's journal. He also told me that this was a Jodoshin temple, with--naturally--Amida Buddha as the main image.
As I approached this landmark, I saw a man pull up in his car and take out a bunch of empty plastic jugs. See the little roof in the picture? It's over a spring that was just gushing water. I've mentioned before how natural landmarks often determine human ones; could this point have been chosen for the diverging of the roads because of the presence of this spring?
By the way, the size of the photo doesn't make this clear, but I'm scratching my head as if trying to make a decision in this shot. Har, har, har.
Hiroshige's Tokaido: Yokkaichi, Station #43 on the Old Tokaido
 Back in Hamamatsu I mentioned this print. Then, I had to take my official photo without my hat because of the wind. Here we see a man chasing his hat along the Mie River. Tokuriki, author of one of the guidebooks I use, says the wind is coming from the direction of Ise--it's the "wind-of-the-gods," he says. |
And with that, we conclude. I went back to my hostel, repaired my homepage, and had a great conversation with my one-night roomie, an Aussie physicist named Sundance. Really.
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Posted October 4, 2019
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