My Aki Meguri ("Autumn Journey") was made up of three "legs": This--the first one--as well as two more: the Yamato Leg and the Shikoku Leg. On this page, I have compiled pages from my old site:
- An Introduction to the Old Tokaido Leg;
- A chart of the 53 Stations of the highway, including ideal distances; and
- A record of my progress, with the Station(s) I reached, where I prayed that day, and where I slept that night
- A list of resources, that helped me along the way
During certain periods of her history, Japan was ruled, not by the emperor, but by a military ruler known as the shogun. One family, the Tokugawas, held power for around 250 years, from about 1600 to the mid-nineteenth century. The first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, had won his office through a series of battles in the tumultuous Sengoku, or Warring States, Period. Because his position was hard-won, he immediately began making moves to consolidate his power and ensure the stability of the peace he had created.
One of his first such moves was to designate the Tokaido as the official highway from his new capital, Edo (now Tokyo) to the ancient capital of Kyoto where the largely-powerless and symbolic Emperor still resided. Although the highway had existed for centuries, the Tokugawa shogunate designated 53 stations between Nihombashi in Edo and the Sanjo Bridge in Kyoto, and provided for the construction of inns at these post stations, as well as general improvements of the road itself.
Although the system was not completed until 1624, Ieyasu’s declaration was issued in 1601, so I am walking in the 400th anniversary year of the Tokaido.
[Note: For this new incarnation of The Temple Guy, I have created a Google Map of the Tokaido. You can also read my new introduction.]
I don't recall where I got these distances, and can't really vouch for their accuracy. Take them as "illustrative." See the daily Logbook posts for further details, where I will try to include (very) approximate daily totals.
| No. | Name | Kanji | From Tokyo |
From Kyoto |
From Previous |
Prefecture |
| Start | Nihombashi | 日本橋 | -- | 492.1 | -- | Tokyo |
| 1 | Shinagawa | 品川 | 7.8 | 484.3 | 7.8 | Tokyo |
| 2 | Kawasaki | 川崎 | 17.6 | 474.5 | 9.8 | Kanagawa |
| 3 | Kanagawa (Yokohama) | 神奈川 | 27.3 | 464.8 | 9.7 | Kanagawa |
| 4 | Hodogaya | 保土ヶ谷 | 32.2 | 459.9 | 4.9 | Kanagawa |
| 5 | Totsuka | 戸塚 | 41.0 | 451.1 | 8.8 | Kanagawa |
| 6 | Fujisawa | 藤沢 | 48.8 | 443.3 | 7.8 | Kanagawa |
| 7 | Hiratsuka | 平塚 | 62.4 | 429.6 | 13.7 | Kanagawa |
| 8 | Oiso | 大磯 | 65.4 | 426.7 | 2.9 | Kanagawa |
| 9 | Odawara | 小田原 | 81.0 | 411.1 | 15.6 | Kanagawa |
| 10 | Hakone | 箱根 | 97.4 | 394.6 | 16.5 | Kanagawa |
| 11 | Mishima | 三島 | 112.2 | 379.9 | 14.7 | Shizuoka |
| 12 | Numazu | 沼津 | 118.0 | 374.1 | 5.8 | Shizuoka |
| 13 | Hara | 原 | 123.8 | 368.2 | 5.9 | Shizuoka |
| 14 | Yoshiwara | 吉原 | 135.6 | 356.5 | 11.7 | Shizuoka |
| 15 | Kanbara | 蒲原 | 146.7 | 345.4 | 11.1 | Shizuoka |
| 16 | Yui | 由比 | 150.6 | 341.5 | 3.9 | Shizuoka |
| 17 | Okitsu | 興津 | 159.7 | 332.4 | 9.1 | Shizuoka |
| 18 | Ejiri (Shimizu) | 江尻 | 163.8 | 328.3 | 4.1 | Shizuoka |
| 19 | Fuchu (Shizuoka) | 府中 | 174.3 | 317.8 | 10.5 | Shizuoka |
| 20 | Mariko | 丸子 | 179.9 | 312.1 | 5.6 | Shizuoka |
| 21 | Okabe | 岡部 | 187.7 | 304.3 | 7.8 | Shizuoka |
| 22 | Fujieda | 藤枝 | 194.5 | 297.6 | 6.7 | Shizuoka |
| 23 | Shimada | 島田 | 203.1 | 289.0 | 8.6 | Shizuoka |
| 24 | Kanaya | 金谷 | 207.0 | 285.1 | 3.9 | Shizuoka |
| 25 | Nissaka | 日坂 | 213.5 | 278.5 | 6.5 | Shizuoka |
| 26 | Kakegawa | 掛川 | 220.6 | 271.5 | 7.0 | Shizuoka |
| 27 | Fukuroi | 袋井 | 230.1 | 262.0 | 9.5 | Shizuoka |
| 28 | Mitsuke | 見付 | 235.9 | 256.1 | 5.8 | Shizuoka |
| 29 | Hamamatsu | 浜松 | 252.3 | 239.8 | 16.4 | Shizuoka |
| 30 | Maisaka | 舞阪 | 263.1 | 228.9 | 10.8 | Shizuoka |
| 31 | Arai | 新居 | 269.0 | 223.1 | 5.9 | Shizuoka |
| 32 | Shirasuka | 白須賀 | 275.5 | 216.6 | 6.5 | Shizuoka |
| 33 | Futagawa | 二川 | 281.2 | 210.8 | 5.7 | Aichi |
| 34 | Yoshida | 吉田 | 287.3 | 204.8 | 6.1 | Aichi |
| 35 | Goyu | 御油 | 297.5 | 194.6 | 10.2 | Aichi |
| 36 | Akasaka | 赤坂 | 299.2 | 192.8 | 1.7 | Aichi |
| 37 | Fujikawa | 藤川 | 308.0 | 184.1 | 8.8 | Aichi |
| 38 | Okazaki | 岡崎 | 314.6 | 177.5 | 6.6 | Aichi |
| 39 | Chiryu | 知立 | 329.5 | 162.6 | 14.9 | Aichi |
| 40 | Narumi | 鳴海 | 340.5 | 151.5 | 11.0 | Aichi |
| 41 | Miya (Nagoya) | 宮 | 347.0 | 145.0 | 6.5 | Aichi |
| 42 | Kuwana | 桑名 | 374.3 | 117.7 | 27.3 | Mie |
| 43 | Yokkaichi | 四日市 | 386.9 | 105.2 | 12.5 | Mie |
| 44 | Ishiyakushi | 石薬師 | 397.6 | 94.4 | 10.7 | Mie |
| 45 | Shono | 庄野 | 400.3 | 91.7 | 2.7 | Mie |
| 46 | Kameyama | 亀山 | 408.1 | 83.9 | 7.8 | Mie |
| 47 | Seki | 関 | 414.0 | 78.1 | 5.8 | Mie |
| 48 | Sakanoshita | 坂下 | 420.5 | 71.6 | 6.5 | Mie |
| 49 | Tsuchiyama | 土山 | 430.2 | 61.8 | 9.7 | Shiga |
| 50 | Minakuchi | 水口 | 440.7 | 51.3 | 10.5 | Shiga |
| 51 | Ishibe | 石部 | 454.4 | 37.7 | 13.7 | Shiga |
| 52 | Kusatsu | 草津 | 466.1 | 26.0 | 11.7 | Shiga |
| 53 | Otsu | 大津 | 480.4 | 11.7 | 14.3 | Shiga |
| End | Kyoto | 京都 | 492.1 | -- | 11.7 | Kyoto |
A couple of notes:
- In the "Stopped at" column, "+" indicates that I went past a particular place; "-" means I almost reached it.
- When possible, "Prayed at" includes the sect of the temple (or if it was a Shinto shrine) and the honzon or figure enshrined on the main altar; I can't guarantee the accuracy of this info!
| Stopped at | Station(s) reached |
Prayed at | Slept at | |
| Sun., Sep. 2 | -- | -- | -- | Home |
| Mon., Sep. 3 | -- | -- | -- | Home |
| Tue., Sep. 4 | -- | -- | -- | Home |
| Wed., Sep. 5 | Shinagawa | Start, 1 | Sengakuji, Shinagawa; Soto Zen (Shaka Muni Butsu) |
Suisanso Ryokan, Gotanda |
| Thu., Sep. 6 | Kawasaki | 2 | Honsenji, Shinagawa; Shingon (Suigetsu Kannon) |
Apartment Bicycle Area, Kawasaki |
| Fri., Sep. 7 | Hodogaya | 3, 4 | Soujiji, Tsurumi; Soto Zen (several) |
Tom and Yuka's, Kamakura |
| Sat., Sep. 8 | -- | -- | Engakuji, Kita-Kamakura; Rinzai Zen (Houkan Shaka) |
" |
| Sun., Sep. 9 | Totsuka | 5 | Unnamed shrine, Totsuka; Shinto (unknown) |
" |
| Mon., Sep. 10 | Chigasaki - | 6 | Yugyoji, Fujisawa; Ji Sect (Amida Nyorai) |
Yanagi Ryokan, Chigasaki |
| Tue., Sep. 11 | No walking; typhoon! |
None | In my room | " |
| Wed., Sep. 12 | Ninomiya | 7, 8 | Joshoji, Chigasaki; Jodoshin (Amida Nyorai); AND Seichoji, Oiso (unknown) |
" |
| Thu., Sep. 13 | Odawara | 9 | Togakuin, Ninomiya; Shingon (Fudo Myoo) |
" |
| Fri., Sep. 14 | Moto-Hakone | 10 | Sainokawara, near Lake Ashino | " |
| Sat., Sep. 15 | Mishima - | -- | Sokanji, near Yamanaka Castle Ruins, between Hakone and Mishima (unknown) |
Numazu Hotel, Numazu |
| Sun., Sep. 16 | Hara | 11, 12, 13 | Mishima Taisha, Mishima; Shinto (God of Land, God of Sea) |
" |
| Mon., Sep. 17 | Yoshiwara | 14 | Shouinji, Hara; Rinzai Zen (Amida Nyorai) |
" |
| Tue., Sep. 18 | Yui + (foot of Satta Pass) |
15, 16 | Daihoji, Yui; Rinzai Zen (Nyoirin Kannon) |
The Maruyamas, Shizuoka |
| Wed., Sep. 19 | Ejiri + (Kusanagai Station) |
17, 18 | Seikenji, Okitsu; Rinzai Zen (Shaka Nyorai) |
Kagetsu Ryokan, Shizuoka |
| Thu., Sep. 20 | Mariko + (foot of Utsunoya Pass) |
19, 20 | Chogenji, Mariko; Rinzai Zen (Amida Nyorai) |
" |
| Fri., Sep. 21 | Shimada - (Rokugo Station) |
21, 22 | Gochi Nyorai, Fujieda; unknown sect (5 Buddhas) |
Shizuka-en Ryokan, Shizuoka |
| Sat., Sep. 22 | Kanaya | 23, 24 | Daizenji, Shimada; Jodo (Amida Nyorai) |
" |
| Sun., Sep. 23 | Kakegawa | 25, 26 | Kyuenji, Nissaka (unknown) |
" |
| Mon., Sep. 24 | Iwata Station | 27, 28 | Daikenji, Mitsuke (unknown) |
Hamanako YH, Araimachi |
| Tue., Sep. 25 | Hamamatsu | 29 | Totomi Kokubunji Ruins (unknown) |
" |
| Wed., Sep. 26 | Shirasuka - | 30, 31 | Kyouonji, Arai (unknown) |
" |
| Thu., Sep. 27 | Futagawa | 32, 33 | Roadside shrine, Futagawa (unknown) |
" |
| Fri., Sep. 28 | My Room! | -- | Nearby Temple, Araimachi (unknown) |
" |
| Sat., Sep. 29 | Akasaka + | 34, 35, 36 | Torinji, Goyu (unknown) |
" |
| Sun., Sep. 30 | Okazaki | 37, 38 | Hakusan Jinja, Okazaki; Shinto (unknown) |
Nagoya YH |
| Mon., Oct. 1 | Narumi - | 39 | Shorenji, Okazaki; Jodoshin? (Amida Buddha?) |
" |
| Tue., Oct. 2 | Miya (Nagoya) |
40, 41 | Seiganji, Narumi (unknown) |
" |
| Wed., Oct. 3 | Yokkaichi + | 42, 43 | Saishoji, Yokkaichi; Jodoshin (Amida Buddha) |
" |
| Thu., Oct. 4 | Kameyama - | 44, 45 | Ishiyakushiji, Ishiyakushi; Shingon (Yakushi Nyorai) |
" |
| Fri., Oct. 5 | Tsuchiyama - | 46, 47, 48 | Hoanji, Sakanoshita (unknown) |
" |
| Sat., Oct. 6 | Minakuchi + | 49, 50 | Unknown, Minakuchi | Omi Hachiman YH |
| Sun., Oct. 7 | Kusatsu + | 51, 52 | Unknown, Kusatsu | " |
| Mon., Oct. 8 | Kyoto - | 53 | Ishiyamadera, Otsu; Shingon (unknown) |
" |
| Tue., Oct. 9 | Kyoto | End | Toji, Kyoto; Shingon (Yakushi Nyorai) |
Nara Seishonen Kaikan YH |
JR (Japan Railways) has published an interesting site with history and comparative pictures of the Tokaido "Past and Present." This site is unfortunately in Japanese only; however, anyone can appreciate the map and Edo-period images of the famous artist Ando Hiroshige, placed side-by-side with images from later periods, found here. [2019: Sadly, both of these resources are kaput.]
All 55 of Hiroshige's prints (53 stations plus the start and end points) in multiple editions can be seen on this users page. He also includes other useful background on the prints. [Equally sadly, this is also gone; but this Wikipedia page has high-quality versions of the best-known edition.]
Beginning in 1964, William Zacha spent over 20 years visiting the sites of the 53 stations and making beautiful, modern watercolors. You can see serigraphs of these paintings--and, what's more, read his fascinating account of the project--on his homepage.
The guidebook I used is in Japanese, but the maps are detailed enough to allow me to follow the "original" route. Also, plenty of landmarks are designated along the way. It's Kanzen Tokaido Gojusan Tsugi Gaido by Tokaido Nettowaaku no Kai.
Another interesting resource is Shank's Mare, a comic novel by Ikku Jippensha about the adventures of a couple of wise guys named Yaji-san and Kita-san as they travel down the old road. Written in 1802, it is in many ways a parody of the contemporary guidebooks being sold at the time.
Finally, I must mention Oliver Statler's book Japanese Inn. (The book is extensively summarized here.) Dave Dutton, my trusted bookseller in Los Angeles, strongly recommended it to me before I came to Japan. I bought it, read it, and fell in love with the idea of walking the Tokaido almost five years before I actually did it. Not a guide to the road, the book gives an impression of the importance of the highway in Japan's history from the vantage point of one historic inn in Okitsu, near Shizuoka. By no small coincidence, Statler also wrote the book that has inspired me to do the Shikoku pilgrimage as well, Japanese Pilgrimage. Both of these books give impressions of Japan far beyond my poor skills to impart.
Updated September 16, 2019
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