My 2001 Aki Meguri ("Autumn Journey") was made up of three "legs": This last one--as well as two before it: the Old Tokaido Leg and the Yamato Leg. On this page, I have compiled three pages from my old site (plus one new bit):
- An Introduction to the Shikoku Leg
- A chart of the 88 Temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, including ideal distances, and
- A record of my progress, with the Temple(s) I reached, and where I slept that night
- Some of the resources I depended on to get me through
- NEW in 2019: A word about the Galleries
Shikoku is an island of legend. Oh, it really exists. But as a friend told me, it seems imbued with mystery. Every tree, every stone, seems to have a legend attached. Many of these center on Shikoku's most famous son, the monk Kukai who later became known as Kobo Daishi, or "Great Teacher/Saint Who Spreads Widely the Buddha's Teaching."
The Daishi (he is the Daishi among many others) is said to have established the Pilgrimage to the 88 Temples of Shikoku. Scholars dispute it; believers don't care. That he lived here is certain; that he traveled extensively, and practiced religious rigors throughout the island, is also certain. Whether it was he or his followers (the members of the Buddhist Shingon sect) somebody established the pilgrimage, securing this smaller-than-New-Jersey island's place in World Buddhism.
As the stories surrounding the pilgrimage developed, the four provinces of the island each took on an attribute related to the pilgrim's progress. These are:
- Tokushima Prefecture (formerly Awa Province): The Dojo (training room) of Awakening Faith
- Kochi Prefecture (formerly Tosa Province): The Dojo of Religious Discipline
- Ehime Prefecture (formerly Iyo Province): The Dojo of Enlightenment
- Kagawa Prefecture (formerly Sanuki Province): The Dojo of Nirvana
In this age of pilgrimage by train, bus, and car, the significance of this progression may have been lost. But friends tell me that recent televisions specials in Japan have centered on the idea that pilgrims are walking again, in greater numbers all the time. This is a sign of hope.
[Note: For this new incarnation of The Temple Guy, I have created a Google Map of the Shikoku circuit. You can also read my new introduction.]
These are ideal distances based on the maps in the book Shikoku Hachijuhachi Kasho O Aruku, by the "Henro Michi Hozon Kyoryoku Kai" (the name of a pilgrimage group). You can read more about this and other resources below.
Note also that the spellings, and in the case of #13 and #15, I have followed Bishop Miyata's book (again, below). For some reason, he reverses those two.
These distances do not include the bangai, or "supernumerary" temples, some of which I will certainly visit.
Finally, it is customary to "close the circle" by returning to #1; the route leads past #10 on its way to #1.
| Name | Kanji | From start | From previous | Prefecture | |
| 1 | Ryozenji | 霊山寺 | -- | -- | Tokushima |
| 2 | Gokurakuji | 極楽寺 | 1.2 | 1.2 | Tokushima |
| 3 | Konsenji | 金泉寺 | 3.7 | 2.5 | Tokushima |
| 4 | Dainichiji | 大日寺 | 8.7 | 5.0 | Tokushima |
| 5 | Jizoji | 地蔵寺 | 10.7 | 2.0 | Tokushima |
| 6 | Anrakuji | 安楽寺 | 16.0 | 5.3 | Tokushima |
| 7 | Jurakuji | 十楽寺 | 17.0 | 1.0 | Tokushima |
| 8 | Kumadaniji | 熊谷寺 | 21.2 | 4.2 | Tokushima |
| 9 | Horinji | 法輪寺 | 23.6 | 2.4 | Tokushima |
| 10 | Kirihataji | 切幡寺 | 27.4 | 3.8 | Tokushima |
| 11 | Fujii-dera | 藤井寺 | 37.2 | 9.8 | Tokushima |
| 12 | Shosanji | 焼山寺 | 49.5 | 12.3 | Tokushima |
| 13 | Jorakuji | 常楽寺 | 71.0 | 21.5 | Tokushima |
| 14 | Kokubunji | 国分寺 | 73.3 | 2.3 | Tokushima |
| 15 | Dainichiji | 大日寺 | 74.1 | 0.8 | Tokushima |
| 16 | Kannonji | 観音寺 | 75.8 | 1.7 | Tokushima |
| 17 | Idoji | 井戸寺 | 78.7 | 2.9 | Tokushima |
| 18 | Onzanji | 恩山寺 | 96.7 | 18.0 | Tokushima |
| 19 | Tatsueji | 立江寺 | 100.5 | 3.8 | Tokushima |
| 20 | Kakurinji | 鶴林寺 | 114.5 | 14.0 | Tokushima |
| 21 | Tairyuji | 太龍寺 | 121.0 | 6.5 | Tokushima |
| 22 | Byodoji | 平等寺 | 132.7 | 11.7 | Tokushima |
| 23 | Yakuoji | 薬王寺 | 153.4 | 20.7 | Tokushima |
| 24 | Hotsu-misakiji | 最御崎寺 | 237.8 | 84.4 | Kochi |
| 25 | Shinshoji | 津照寺 | 244.6 | 6.8 | Kochi |
| 26 | Kongochoji | 金剛頂寺 | 248.6 | 4.0 | Kochi |
| 27 | Konomineji | 神峰寺 | 279.1 | 30.5 | Kochi |
| 28 | Dainichiji | 大日寺 | 317.4 | 38.3 | Kochi |
| 29 | Kokubunji | 国分寺 | 326.4 | 9.0 | Kochi |
| 30 | Zenrakuji | 善楽寺 | 333.4 | 7.0 | Kochi |
| 31 | Chikurinji | 竹林寺 | 340.1 | 6.7 | Kochi |
| 32 | Zenjibuji | 禅師峰寺 | 346.1 | 6.0 | Kochi |
| 33 | Sekkaiji | 雪蹊寺 | 353.6 | 7.5 | Kochi |
| 34 | Tanemaji | 種間寺 | 360.1 | 6.5 | Kochi |
| 35 | Kiyotakiji | 清滝寺 | 3639.6 | 9.5 | Kochi |
| 36 | Shoryuji | 青竜寺 | 384.4 | 14.8 | Kochi |
| 37 | Iwamotoji | 岩本寺 | 439.9 | 55.5 | Kochi |
| 38 | Kongo-fukuji | 金剛福寺 | 526.6 | 86.7 | Kochi |
| 39 | Enkoji | 延光寺 | 585.2 | 58.6 | Kochi |
| 40 | Kanjizaiji | 観自在寺 | 615.0 | 29.8 | Ehime |
| 41 | Ryukoji | 竜光寺 | 662.7 | 47.7 | Ehime |
| 42 | Butsumokuji | 佛木寺 | 665.5 | 2.8 | Ehime |
| 43 | Meisekiji | 明石寺 | 676.3 | 10.8 | Ehime |
| 44 | Taihoji | 大宝寺 | 746.5 | 70.2 | Ehime |
| 45 | Iwayaji | 岩屋寺 | 755.6 | 9.1 | Ehime |
| 46 | Joruriji | 浄瑠璃寺 | 780.3 | 24.7 | Ehime |
| 47 | Yasakaji | 八坂寺 | 781.2 | 0.9 | Ehime |
| 48 | Sairinji | 西林寺 | 785.7 | 4.5 | Ehime |
| 49 | Jodoji | 浄土寺 | 788.8 | 3.1 | Ehime |
| 50 | Hantaji | 繁多寺 | 790.4 | 1.6 | Ehime |
| 51 | Ishiteji | 石手寺 | 792.9 | 2.5 | Ehime |
| 52 | Taisanji | 太山寺 | 803.2 | 10.3 | Ehime |
| 53 | Emmyoji | 圓明寺 | 805.5 | 2.3 | Ehime |
| 54 | Emmeiji | 延命寺 | 840.0 | 34.5 | Ehime |
| 55 | Nankobo | 南光坊 | 843.6 | 3.6 | Ehime |
| 56 | Taisanji | 泰山寺 | 846.6 | 3.0 | Ehime |
| 57 | Eifukuji | 栄福寺 | 849.6 | 3.0 | Ehime |
| 58 | Senyuji | 仙遊寺 | 851.2 | 2.5 | Ehime |
| 59 | Kokubunji | 国分寺 | 858.3 | 6.2 | Ehime |
| 60 | Yokomineji | 横峰寺 | 891.3 | 33.0 | Ehime |
| 61 | Koonji | 香園寺 | 900.6 | 9.3 | Ehime |
| 62 | Hojuji | 宝寿寺 | 902.1 | 1.5 | Ehime |
| 63 | Kisshoji | 吉祥寺 | 903.6 | 1.5 | Ehime |
| 64 | Maegamiji | 前神寺 | 906.9 | 3.3 | Ehime |
| 65 | Sankakuji | 三角寺 | 951.9 | 45.0 | Ehime |
| 66 | Unpenji | 雲辺寺 | 972.2 | 20.3 | Kagawa |
| 67 | Daikoji | 大興寺 | 982.0 | 9.8 | Kagawa |
| 68 | Jinne-in | 神恵院 | 990.7 | 8.7 | Kagawa |
| 69 | Kannonji | 観音寺 | 990.8 | 0.1 | Kagawa |
| 70 | Motoyamaji | 本山寺 | 995.5 | 4.7 | Kagawa |
| 71 | Iyadaniji | 弥谷寺 | 1007.7 | 12.2 | Kagawa |
| 72 | Mandaraji | 曼荼羅寺 | 1011.6 | 3.9 | Kagawa |
| 73 | Shushakaji | 出釈迦寺 | 1012.0 | 0.4 | Kagawa |
| 74 | Koyamaji | 甲山寺 | 1015.4 | 3.4 | Kagawa |
| 75 | Zentsuji | 善通寺 | 1017.0 | 1.6 | Kagawa |
| 76 | Konzoji | 金倉寺 | 1020.9 | 3.9 | Kagawa |
| 77 | Doryuji | 道隆寺 | 1024.8 | 3.9 | Kagawa |
| 78 | Goshoji | 郷照寺 | 1031.9 | 7.1 | Kagawa |
| 79 | Tenno-ji (Koshoin) | 天皇寺 | 1038.2 | 6.3 | Kagawa |
| 80 | Kokubunji | 国分寺 | 1045.0 | 6.8 | Kagawa |
| 81 | Shiramineji | 白峯寺 | 1051.7 | 6.7 | Kagawa |
| 82 | Negoroji | 根香寺 | 1056.3 | 4.6 | Kagawa |
| 83 | Ichinomiyaji | 一宮寺 | 1069.6 | 13.3 | Kagawa |
| 84 | Yashimaji | 屋島寺 | 1083.3 | 13.7 | Kagawa |
| 85 | Yakuriji | 八栗寺 | 1090.5 | 7.2 | Kagawa |
| 86 | Shidoji | 志度寺 | 1098.1 | 7.6 | Kagawa |
| 87 | Nagaoji | 長尾寺 | 1105.1 | 7.0 | Kagawa |
| 88 | Okuboji | 大窪寺 | 1117.9 | 12.8 | Kagawa |
| 10 | Kirihataji | 切幡寺 | 1137.2 | 19.3 | Tokushima |
| 1 | Ryozenji | 霊山寺 | 1164.6 | 27.4 | Tokushima |
Here are the temples I reached each day, and where I slept each night. All dates are in 2001.
| Temples | Slept at | |
| Sun., Oct 14 | 1-6 | Temple #6 |
| Mon., Oct 15 | 6-10+ | Kamojima Ryokan, near Temple #11 |
| Tue., Oct 16 | 11, 13-16 | Komatsushima YH, near Temple #18 |
| Wed., Oct 17 | 17, 18 | " |
| Thu., Oct 18 | 12 | " |
| Fri., Oct 19 | 19, 22-23 | Temple #19 |
| Sat., Oct 20 | 19, 20 | Kanekoya Minshuku, Near Temple #20 |
| Sun., Oct 21 | 21, Bangai | Hiwasa YH, near Temple #23 |
| Mon., Oct 22 | No temples today! | (Business) Hotel Itcho, Kochi |
| Tue., Oct 23 | 24, 25 | " |
| Wed., Oct 24 | 26, 27, 28 | " |
| Thu., Oct 25 | 29, 30, 31, 32 | " |
| Fri., Oct 26 | 33, 34, 35, 36 | " |
| Sat., Oct 27 | 38 | Temple #37 |
| Sun., Oct 28 | 37, 39, 40, 41, 42 | Uwajima YH, between Temple #40 and #41 |
| Mon., Oct 29 | 43 and a Bangai | Matsuyama YH, near Temple #51 |
| Tue., Oct 30 | 44, 45 | " |
| Wed., Oct 31 | 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51 | " |
| Thu., Nov 1 | 52, 53 | " |
| Fri., Nov 2 | 54, 55, 56 | Komecho Ryokan, Imabari, near Temple #55 |
| Sat., Nov 3 | 57, 58, 59 | " |
| Sun., Nov 4 | 61, 62, 63, 64 | " |
| Mon., Nov 5 | 60, 65 | " |
| Tue., Nov 6 | 66, 67 | Wakamatsu Hotel, Kannonji, near Temples #68 & 69 |
| Wed., Nov 7 | 68, 69, 70 | Sunny Inn, Kannonji, near Temples #68 & 69 |
| Thu., Nov 8 | 71, 72, 73, 74, 75 | Kaiganji Temple YH, Bangai #17 |
| Fri., Nov 9 | 76, 77, 78, 79, 80 | " |
| Sat., Nov 10 | 81, 82 | Takamatsu City (Business) Hotel, near Temple 84 |
| Sun., Nov 11 | 83 | " |
| Mon., Nov 12 | 84, 85, 86 | " |
| Tue., Nov 13 | 87, 88 | " |
| Wed., Nov 14 | 1 | Temple #37 |
| Thu., Nov 15 | (2) | Koyasan YH |
| Fri., Nov 16 | Koyasan | The Imamuras, Mie |
In both the first and second incarnations of these pages, I created a separate section which contained (in most cases) three pictures of each temple:
- the main gate
- the main hall
- the hall dedicated to Kobo Daishi
The guidebook I will use is in Japanese, but the maps are easily understood. It's called Shikoku Hachijuhachi Kasho O Aruku, and it's by the "Henro Michi Hozon Kyoryoku Kai," the name of a pilgrimage group. Other excellent guidebooks include Ed Readicker-Henderson's The Traveler's Guide to Japanese Pilgrimages (in English) and Manganji's green guide (in Japanese), available from Koji Junrei Company, 9882-1 Tennodai, Choshi-shi, Chiba-ken 175, JAPAN. This company publishes guides for over 20 other pilgrimages in Japan; the easiest way to get them is at temple #1 on any particular route.
Online guides include those by Jeffrey Hackler, Akiko Takemoto and Steve McCarty, David L. Turkington, and Don Weiss's Echoes of Incense (with a resources page). [2019: The links given here have all been updated, and may not be the actual information I used. The Takemoto/McCarty material seems now to be available only as a printed book. Notice that all of these materials have now been subsumed into David Turkingtn's comprehensive website.]
The classic book on Shikoku's pilgrimage in English is Oliver Statler's Japanese Pilgrimage. I'm almost embarrassed to write about my experiences after reading this book. A not-so-classic but entertaining book is Tales of a Summer Henro by Craig McLachlan.
For the religious perspective on the pilgrimage, nothing comes close to A Henro Pilgrimage to the 88 Temples of Shikoku Island Japan by Bishop Taisen Miyata. He's a Shingon Buddhist priest in Los Angeles who first performed the pilgrimage on foot in 1955. He has since guided numerous tours of American Buddhists, and the book is both a devotional guide and a collection of legends about each temple.
[2019: Many resources are now available online, including some excellent FaceBook groups. I leave this here as a sort of historical vestige.
Updated October 9, 2019
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